Venice is tricky. On one hand, it’s one of Europe’s—maybe even the world’s—most overtouristed spots. Pretty much year-round, it’s packed, expensive, confusing for newcomers (what’s the difference between a gondola, a vaporetto, and a traghetto, anyway?), and too often the setting for some serious Italian food crimes.
But let’s pump the brakes on Venice hate.
As we watched the sunset paint the Grand Canal in shades of orange and pink, with the hum of motorboats and gondoliers’ serenades in the background, my colleague and Travel + Leisure contributor Erica Firpo said, “Venice refuses to let you hate it.” Sure, the city can frustrate and disappoint unprepared visitors, but it’ll always be Venice: geographically ridiculous, breathtakingly (almost painfully) beautiful, and utterly mesmerizing once you push past the chaos.
Drawing from my many visits, I’ve put together a Venice guide covering must-see spots, unforgettable hotels, the best cicchetti and ombra, and where to steal a quiet moment or two.
Top 5 Can’t-Miss Experiences
- Take a gondola ride – You never know if you’ll be back, so don’t skip this quintessential Venice experience.
- Make a meal of cicchetti – Venice’s answer to tapas, these small bites can turn into a full feast. Cantina Do Spade in San Polo is a favorite.
- Splurge on a balcony suite – Nothing beats flinging open your hotel window to the Grand Canal. The St. Regis Venice is a top pick.
- Walk Venice at night – Moonlit canals, creaking boats, and quiet alleyways—after dark, the city truly earns its “Serenissima” title.
- Sip a spritz with a view – Skip the pricey San Marco bars and find a canal-side spot like Bar Longhi at the Gritti Palace.
Best Hotels & Resorts
St. Regis Venice – Travel + Leisure readers’ top choice for good reason. Impeccable in every way, it blends modern style with Murano glass and Grand Canal views. Don’t miss their signature Bloody Mary.
Hotel Flora – In a city full of great hotels, Flora stands out for its warmth, fair prices, and charming garden. A rare family-run gem.
Venice Venice – The hottest new stay, with a “Postevenetian” vibe. Think contemporary art, sleek rooms, and Rialto views—all inside a historic palazzo.
Best Things to Do
Gondola Ride – I’ll die on this hill: if you skip a gondola ride, you’ll regret it. The Floating City is pure magic from the water. Try the quieter canals of San Polo.
Doge’s Palace Secret Itineraries Tour – Unlock hidden stories, cryptic symbols, and grand art from Venice’s golden age—plus skip-the-line access.
Burano – Instagram-ready, yes, but this lacemaking and fishing village is the real deal. Visit early or late to dodge crowds.
Peggy Guggenheim Collection – A must for 20th-century art lovers. Housed in her former home, it’s a testament to her legacy in surrealist and abstract art.
Best Shopping
Godi Fiorenza – A boutique celebrating 20 years of exquisite clothing and stunning jewelry. A local arts pro calls it “very special.”
Francis Model – Skip mass-produced souvenirs for a handmade leather bag. My chartreuse suede one still gets compliments.
MEG Glass – Don’t leave without Murano glassware. This tiny shop near Ponte de le Ostreghe has affordable finds (ask about shipping).
Gilberto Penzo – For unique gifts, his model boat kits (gondolas, vaporettos, etc.) scream Venice.
Best Nightlife
Walk the Riva – Venice isn’t a late-night city, but a stroll along the Grand Canal toward Giardini della Biennale is magical.
Cannaregio – The working-class soul of Venice. Bars along Fondamenta de la Misericordia offer drinks and cicchetti without the tourist frenzy.
Arts Bar Venice – Can’t stay at the St. Regis? At least swing by for a fancy cocktail (some come in smoke domes) amid rotating art exhibits.
Best Restaurants
Cantina Do Spade – Skip the sit-down spot for the buzzing cicchetti bar. No bad bites here—just crowd into the alley with your plate.
Nevodi – A local’s pick for homemade pasta, garden-fresh veggies, and seafood in a no-frills, friendly setting.
Trattoria al Gatto Nero – Worth the hype. Their risotto de gò (and fall/spring softshell crabs) is a must. Book ahead.
Bar All’Arco – A tiny cicchetti spot near Rialto. The baccalà mantecato (creamy cod on polenta) is a game-changer.
Best Time to Visit
For fewer crowds, brave November, early December, January, or pre-Carnevale February. In peak season, start early, rest midday, and explore evenings.
How to Get There
Fly into Marco Polo (VCE), then take a bus, Alilaguna boat, or water taxi to the city. Trains arrive at Santa Lucia Station (Grand Canal views included).
No cars allowed—park landside and take a train or boat in.
Getting Around
Mostly on foot (pack light—bridges and stairs await). Otherwise:
- Vaporetto: Water buses run until midnight.
- **Traghetto
